San Juan Beach: The Surfing Capital Of The North

It all started with a quick conversation among the barkada that unexpectedly turned into a plan for a spontaneous trip to Baguio and La Union. What began as casual chatter soon became an exciting adventure as we coordinated schedules and packed our bags. The idea of chasing sunsets, exploring new food spots, and simply unwinding by the beach was too tempting to pass up. Before we knew it, we were on our way, eager to escape the usual routines and dive into the laid-back coastal vibe of San Juan, La Union.

Having recently returned from Bali just over a month ago, I couldn’t help but draw comparisons between Urbiztondo in San Juan and Seminyak Beach in Bali. Both share the same energy of a vibrant surf culture seamlessly blending with a lively food and beach party scene. Urbiztondo feels like a mini Seminyak, with its sandy shores filled with surfers, bustling restaurants, and the buzz of nightlife. The atmosphere here was inviting and dynamic, yet it carried a uniquely local charm that made it distinctly Filipino.

What stood out to me was the spirited street running parallel to the beach. It’s lined with vibrant restaurants, quirky bars, cozy hostels, and charming local shops. Even as an introvert, I found myself enjoying the experience of wandering around, soaking in the lively atmosphere. One thing I particularly love about Elyu is how its popular destinations are homegrown establishments. Unlike Boracay, which is heavily influenced by big brands, Elyu allows you to appreciate the food culture and creativity cultivated by locals.

We arrived at the beach just in time to witness the sun dipping below the horizon. The golden hour painted the sky in hues of orange and pink, casting a serene glow over the shoreline. The waves continued their rhythmic dance, surfers riding the last swells of the day, while beachgoers gathered to admire the view. Watching the sunset here felt like a warm welcome to our Elyu experience.

Elyu earned its title as the “Surfing Capital of the North” because of San Juan beach’s consistent waves and ideal surf conditions. Over the years, it has become a haven for both beginner and professional surfers, drawing enthusiasts from all over the country. The surf culture here is more than just a sport. It’s a way of life that has shaped the community and its laid-back, coastal identity.

However, the waves here aren’t for everyone. Locals often warn visitors that the currents are strong and can be dangerous for swimming. Fortunately, we found a small puddle of water near the shore where the toddler in our group could safely splash around. It was a comforting spot amidst the strong waves, allowing everyone to enjoy the water safely.

To be honest, the beach itself isn’t as pristine as Boracay. The sand is darker yet fine, and the beachfront establishments appear somewhat mismatched when viewed from afar. The shoreline also ends in a rocky stretch. But despite these imperfections, people continue to flock to Elyu not for its aesthetics but for the vibrant and welcoming vibe that it offers. It’s the atmosphere that keeps visitors coming back.

For our accommodation, we checked in at Vessel Hostel, a compact yet creative space built from repurposed shipping containers stacked together. Located in the center of San Juan, this hostel reflects the efficient use of small land cuts in the area. Most accommodations here follow the same compact, hostel-style setup, making use of limited space while maintaining comfort and style. Even the restaurants and shops are designed to maximize every inch of their location.

Despite its small footprint, Vessel Hostel thoughtfully incorporated common areas for guests to socialize and relax. There’s a cozy roof deck with a balcony, and the top floor features a kitchen and dining area where free breakfast is served. The interior design is warm and inviting, with wooden accents and lush greenery. It felt like a space truly built for surfers and travelers in mind.

Since there were eight of us, we booked two dorm-type rooms with double-deck beds. Each bed was comfortable and came with its own power outlet, perfect for charging devices after a day at the beach. The air conditioning kept the room cool and cozy. However, the shared bathroom setup posed a bit of a challenge. There was only one small shower room for all of us. I initially thought each dorm had its own bathroom, so this caught me off guard.

While Vessel Hostel was a unique and well-designed stay, it wasn’t exactly family-friendly. Booking it for a group that included a toddler and a senior citizen was a bit of a misstep on my part. In fairness, the staff did inform me during booking that it might not be suitable for families, but we brushed it off because the photos and TikTok clips made the space look more spacious than it actually was.

For those seeking the party scene, popular spots like Flotsam and Jetsam, Hara, Tavern, and Fatwave are the go-to places. I managed to check them out, but surprisingly, they weren’t as crowded as I expected for a Friday night. Then again, maybe we were just too tired and went to bed early, missing out on how lively these places could get later in the night.

Not being much of a partygoer, I opted to explore Elyu’s cozy coffee shops instead. The area surprisingly has a wide range of unique cafes, each with its own concept. At night, we visited Stream of Consciousness, a cartoon-inspired coffee shop also built from shipping containers. Their Spanish Latte was a highlight for me. The next morning, we went back to El Union Coffee for their famous Dirty Horchata. This coffee spot perfectly captures Elyu’s beach and street vibe. It’s definitely a must-visit.

When it comes to food, San Juan doesn’t disappoint. There are countless eateries and restaurants to explore, such as Olas Banditos, Sabong Fried Chicken, Kermit, Tagpuan and Mad Monkeys. But since we were a large group, we decided to dine at Kabsat. Known for its Filipino comfort food and beachside ambiance, Kabsat offers a cozy yet lively dining experience. Its rustic interiors and seaside view make it a popular choice for groups looking to enjoy good food with great company.

And what’s a beach trip without indulging in desserts? San Juan has no shortage of sweet treats. We headed to the Great Northwest Food Park to try the Instagram-famous Coco Mama and Makai Bowls. Though visually appealing and trendy, the flavors were fairly ordinary. Still, it was a fun experience, especially for photo-loving groups.

Food parks seem to thrive in Elyu, catering to the diverse tastes of tourists and locals alike. Aside from the Great Northwest Food Park, we also noticed The Tavern by the Sea and Port San Juan. The former is beachfront with a rustic wooden design, while the latter sits roadside with a more youthful, retro vibe. Both offer great spaces for food lovers to explore.

Overall, our quick escape to San Juan, La Union, was filled with discovery, good food, and a laid-back vibe that made the trip memorable. I perceived that Elyu’s charm lies in its authenticity and vibrant energy. Whether you’re a surfer, a foodie, or just someone looking to unwind, San Juan welcomes you with open arms and an unforgettable experience.